Aude: Carcassonne and Cathar Country

The Aude is a land of fortresses, legends and vineyards. From the double ramparts of the Cité de Carcassonne, the most recognisable medieval silhouette in France, to the Cathar castles clinging to rocky pinnacles in the Corbières hills, by way of the plane-tree-lined Canal du Midi and the silent cloisters of Fontfroide, this Languedoc département is a journey through time at every turn. This guide takes you through its citadels, villages and landscapes where history and nature are woven inseparably together.

Carcassonne: The Medieval Citadel

Carcassonne is dominated by its Cité médiévale, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest restored fortress in Europe. With 52 towers and 3 kilometres of double walls, it delivers a breathtaking vision of the Middle Ages.

The Château Comtal and the Ramparts

The Château Comtal, a fortress within the fortress, can be visited with an audioguide that traces the turbulent history of the Cité from Roman times to Viollet-le-Duc's nineteenth-century restoration. Entry costs about 9.50 euros and the visit takes 1.5 to 2 hours. The walkway between the two rings of walls offers spectacular views across slate rooftops, towers and the distant Pyrenees. Tip: come early in the morning or after 5 pm to enjoy the Cité without the summer crowds. In the evening, when floodlights illuminate the ramparts, the sight is magical.

The Bastide Saint-Louis

Do not overlook the lower town, the Bastide Saint-Louis, founded in the thirteenth century on the left bank of the Aude river. Its grid of streets lined with townhouses, the lively Place Carnot with its daily market and the covered market hall deserve at least an hour of exploration. This is where the locals live and where you will find the best restaurants, away from the tourist bustle of the Cité. Be sure to try cassoulet de Castelnaudary, the slow-cooked bean and meat casserole that is the signature dish of the region, served in many bastide restaurants.

The Cathar Castles

The Cathar castles, often called "citadels of vertigo," are royal fortresses built on ridges and rocky spurs across the Corbières hills and the Pyrenean foothills. Despite their name, most were constructed after the Albigensian Crusade to defend the border with Aragon.

Peyrepertuse

Peyrepertuse is the largest of the Cathar castles, a 300-metre-long fortress perched at 800 metres on a limestone ridge. Its outline merges with the rock and only reveals itself at the last moment. The climb from the car park takes 20 minutes on a steep path. Entry costs about 7 euros. The panorama from the San Jordi keep at the far end of the castle is dizzying, sweeping across the Corbières, the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees.

Quéribus and Puilaurens

Quéribus, the last Cathar stronghold to fall in 1255, occupies an isolated rocky pinnacle above the Roussillon plain. Its Gothic hall with a unique central pillar is worth the climb on its own. Puilaurens, further south, is surrounded by forest and offers a wilder setting. Entry costs about 7 euros each and allow 1.5 to 2 hours per castle including the ascent. A "Pays Cathare" pass combining several castles is available and offers worthwhile savings.

The Canal du Midi in the Aude

The Canal du Midi crosses the Aude from west to east for over 100 kilometres, offering some of its most beautiful stretches.

The Fonseranes Locks

On the edge of Béziers (just at the departmental border), the Fonseranes locks form a spectacular water staircase of nine basins, allowing boats to climb a drop of 21 metres. On the Aude side, the canal winds between rows of ancient plane trees, passes through the Malpas Tunnel (the first tunnel ever cut for a canal in Europe) and glides beneath the oppidum of Ensérune, an archaeological hilltop site with panoramic views over the drained Montady lake and its striking radial field pattern. Licence-free boats can be hired from several bases, notably Homps and Trèbes, from about 200 euros per day for a 4- to 6-person boat.

Narbonne: Ancient Roman Capital

Narbonne was the first Roman colony outside Italy and the capital of Gallia Narbonensis, a status attested by its underground remains.

The Horreum and the Cathedral

The Horreum, a network of underground Roman galleries probably used as warehouses, is the only monument of its kind open to the public in France (entry about 5 euros). Above ground, the Cathedral of Saint-Just-et-Saint-Pasteur impresses with its 41-metre-high Gothic choir, the third tallest in France, yet it was never finished: only the choir was built because the city wall could not be demolished to make way for the nave. The Archbishop's Palace, adjacent to the cathedral, houses archaeological collections and offers panoramic views from its keep tower. The Halles de Narbonne, the covered market ranked among the finest in France, is an essential stop for food lovers.

Fontfroide Abbey

Fontfroide Abbey, tucked into a Corbières valley 15 kilometres from Narbonne, is one of the finest Cistercian monastic complexes in France. Founded in the twelfth century and rescued from ruin by private patrons in the early twentieth century, it offers a full visit taking in the abbey church with its modern stained glass, the Romanesque cloister with elegant arcades, the chapter house and the terraced rose gardens. Entry costs about 12 euros and the guided tour lasts 1.5 hours. The setting is particularly beautiful in the late afternoon, when golden light bathes the ochre stone. Concerts and exhibitions are held here regularly in summer.

Gruissan and the Aude Coast

Gruissan is a circular fishing village wrapped around the Tour Barberousse, the remnant of a medieval castle. The beach at Gruissan, with its famous wooden chalets on stilts (immortalised in the film "Betty Blue"), stretches between lagoons and salt pans. The Aude coast, less built-up than the neighbouring Hérault shore, alternates between wild beaches, flamingo-dotted lagoons and oyster-farming villages. Windsurfers and kitesurfers will find ideal conditions on the Narbonnaise lagoons.

Lagrasse: One of the Most Beautiful Villages in France

Lagrasse, listed among the Most Beautiful Villages in France, is a medieval gem nestled at the meeting of the Orbieu and Alsou rivers in the heart of the Corbières. Its three-arched medieval bridge, golden-stone lanes and half-timbered houses create a setting untouched by time. The Abbey of Sainte-Marie d'Orbieu, founded in the eighth century, is shared between a religious community and a cultural centre hosting exhibitions and artist residencies. Lagrasse is also a village of book lovers, with several bookshops and an annual book fair in August. The village takes about 2 hours to explore and makes an excellent starting point for hikes in the Corbières.

Practical Tips

Getting Around

Carcassonne airport, served by low-cost airlines, connects to several European cities. Carcassonne station sits on the Toulouse-Narbonne-Montpellier rail line. A car is essential for the Cathar castles and the backcountry. Corbières roads are winding but reward with striking panoramas.

Best Time to Visit

April to June and September to October are ideal. Summer is hot and the Cité de Carcassonne very busy, but the evenings are magical. On July 14, the Carcassonne fireworks display ("the blaze of the Cité") is one of the most spectacular in France. Winter brings the Cathar castles in dramatic light with no crowds at all.

Budget

Expect 65 to 120 euros per night for a double room. Cathar castle entry fees (6 to 9 euros) remain reasonable. Cassoulet in a restaurant costs 15 to 20 euros. Corbières and Minervois wines offer outstanding value, with estate bottles from as little as 6 euros.