Aube: Troyes and the Champagne Country

Troyes packs more medieval churches per square metre than almost any city in France, yet the crowds ignore it in favour of Paris or the Riviera. The Aube department works the same way: secret Champagne vineyards along the Cote des Bar, forests threaded with lakes in the Parc de la Foret d'Orient, and the memory of Renoir at Essoyes -- all treasures that reward the curious traveller.

Troyes: A Medieval Marvel

Shaped Like a Champagne Cork

Seen from above, the historic centre of Troyes traces the outline of a champagne cork — a coincidence of medieval town planning that locals are understandably proud of. Within this compact perimeter lies one of the finest concentrations of half-timbered houses in all of France. Wander through the Ruelle des Chats, a narrow alley where upper storeys lean towards each other until they almost touch, or explore the courtyard of the Mortier d'Or. Every lane holds an architectural surprise.

France's Stained Glass Capital

Troyes and the surrounding Aube department contain the largest area of historic stained glass in France outside Paris. Nine churches in the city centre alone are classified as historic monuments, housing glass panels spanning the 12th to the 19th century. Saints-Pierre-et-Paul Cathedral, with 1,500 square metres of stained glass, is bathed in an otherworldly coloured light. Sainte-Madeleine Church, the oldest in town, startles visitors with its exquisite Flamboyant Gothic stone rood screen — the only one of its kind in the Champagne region. Saint-Pantaleon Church features a remarkable collection of Renaissance statuary.

For a deeper appreciation, the Cite du Vitrail, opened in 2022 inside the former Hotel-Dieu-le-Comte, traces seven centuries of glass-making art across 3,000 square metres. Admission is around 8 euros.

Factory Outlet Shopping

Troyes also happens to be the factory outlet capital of France. Three retail parks — McArthurGlen Troyes, Marques Avenue and Pont-Sainte-Marie — bring together over 200 shops offering 30 to 70 percent off major brands. It is a compelling reason to pair culture with retail therapy over a weekend break.

Foret d'Orient Regional Nature Park

Twenty minutes east of Troyes, the Foret d'Orient Regional Nature Park spreads across 80,000 hectares of forest, lakes and wetland meadows. Three large reservoirs — Lac d'Orient, Lac du Temple and Lac Amance — provide excellent conditions for sailing, kayaking, swimming and fishing.

The bird reserve at Lac du Temple is home to over 250 recorded species, making it one of the most important birdwatching sites in northeastern France. White-tailed eagles, ospreys and common cranes are regularly spotted here. Access to the park is free, and canoe or pedal-boat hire costs between 10 and 20 euros per hour.

In winter, the oak and hornbeam forests are ideal for quiet, contemplative walks, while early morning mist over the lakes creates landscapes of haunting beauty.

The Cote des Bar Vineyards

Champagne is not only about Reims and Epernay. The Cote des Bar, in the south of the Aube, now produces over a quarter of all French champagne, primarily from Pinot Noir grapes. Its rolling hills and sleepy wine villages possess a quiet charm that appeals to visitors seeking tranquillity.

Growers on the Cote des Bar tend to favour a personal, hands-on approach far removed from the industrial scale of the big Reims houses. You push open a cellar door, taste in the winery, and leave with bottles you will not find anywhere else. The villages of Les Riceys — the only commune in France to hold three champagne appellations — and Meurville are well worth a lingering stop.

Essoyes: Renoir's Village

In the heart of the Cote des Bar, Essoyes is the village Auguste Renoir chose for his family. He spent over thirty summers here and is buried in the local cemetery. His studio, faithfully restored, is open to visitors for around 7 euros, and a walking trail through the village connects the places he painted. The Espace des Renoir offers a permanent exhibition on the artist's family life.

Nigloland Theme Park

Families will enjoy Nigloland, a theme park set in Dolancourt between Troyes and Bar-sur-Aube. With 43 rides including several major roller coasters, a water course and a recreated Canadian village, it draws more than 600,000 visitors annually and ranks as the largest theme park in the Grand Est region. Admission is around 35 euros for adults and 30 euros for children. The park opens from April to November, with extended hours in summer.

Clairvaux Abbey

Founded in 1115 by Saint Bernard, Clairvaux Abbey was one of the most influential spiritual centres in medieval Christendom. Converted into a prison after the Revolution — a function it partly retains today — it can be explored through guided tours that weave together monastic and penitentiary history. The 18th-century buildings, particularly the lay brothers' refectory, are striking in their scale. Allow around 8 euros and two hours for the visit.

Practical Tips

When to Visit

Spring is ideal for the vineyards in bloom and walks in the Foret d'Orient. Summer suits watersports on the lakes. September and October bring harvest colours. For shopping, the winter sales in January and summer sales in June offer the best bargains at the factory outlets.

Getting There

Troyes is 90 minutes from Paris by direct train and around 100 minutes by car via the A5 motorway. A car is recommended for the Cote des Bar and the Foret d'Orient.

Budget

Accommodation ranges from 50 to 80 euros per night for a budget hotel, 80 to 130 euros for a B&B or charming hotel, and 130 to 220 euros for upscale options. A restaurant lunch runs 14 to 22 euros, dinner 25 to 40 euros. Local farmers' markets provide excellent produce for picnics at reasonable prices. Hiking, village exploration and most churches are free. Paid sites and museums cost 6 to 15 euros per person. To keep costs in check, look for weekday set-lunch menus, stay in rural gites or quality campsites, and enjoy the free tastings many local producers offer.