Allier: Vichy, Moulins and the Forest of Troncais

The Allier is the northernmost department of Auvergne, a land of rolling hedgerows, slow rivers and deep forests that most travellers cross without stopping on their way south. Yet this territory hides two towns of unexpected elegance -- spa-town Vichy and ducal Moulins --, the finest oak forest in Europe and a thermal heritage inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Allier is central France's best-kept secret.

Vichy, Queen of Spa Towns

A UNESCO-Listed Thermal Heritage

Vichy is one of eleven Great European Spa Towns inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021. Its thermal history stretches back to Roman antiquity, but it was under Napoleon III that the town reached its zenith. The emperor stayed five times between 1861 and 1866, transforming a modest watering place into a lavish resort.

The Parc des Sources, in the heart of town, is a shaded garden bordered by the Halle des Sources, an elegant iron-and-glass gallery where you can sample the thermal waters free of charge -- some hot and sulphurous, others cool and sparkling. The experience is surprising and costs nothing. The Art Nouveau Grand Casino, the Opera House and the Hall des Sources form a remarkably cohesive architectural ensemble.

The Banks of the Allier

Napoleon III had the banks of the Allier landscaped into a promenade, creating a riverfront that recalls a seaside resort. Today, the Vichy lake (a five-kilometre artificial stretch on the river) is a hub for walking, rowing, canoeing and swimming. The plane-tree-lined banks are ideal for strolling or cycling. The Parc d'Allier, stretching over 100 hectares on the left bank, is the largest landscaped urban park in France.

Vichy Pastilles

The famous Vichy pastilles, small white lozenges flavoured with mint or anise, have been made since 1825 using mineral salts from the thermal springs. The Vichy Celestins shop in the town centre stocks the full range and tells the story of this confection turned national icon.

Moulins, Capital of the Dukes of Bourbon

The Master of Moulins Triptych

Moulins is the prefecture of the Allier and the former capital of the powerful Duchy of Bourbon. The Cathedral of Notre-Dame houses the Master of Moulins Triptych (circa 1498), a masterpiece of late-medieval French painting. The altarpiece depicts the Virgin in Glory flanked by Duke Pierre II of Bourbon and his wife Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. The colours are astonishingly fresh for a work more than five centuries old. Entry to the cathedral is free; a guided tour of the triptych costs around 5 euros.

The National Centre for Stage Costume

The CNCS is the only museum in the world devoted entirely to stage costume: opera, theatre, ballet and film. Housed in a former cavalry barracks, it displays collections from the Comedie-Francaise, the Paris Opera and the Bibliotheque nationale de France. The temporary exhibitions are spectacular. Expect to pay around 7 euros and spend 1h30 exploring.

The Old Town

The old quarter of Moulins, with its half-timbered houses from the fifteenth century, Renaissance mansions and the Jacquemart tower (a fourteenth-century clock whose automata strike the hours), rewards a leisurely wander. The Pavillon Anne de Beaujeu, one of the earliest Renaissance buildings in France, now houses the departmental museum.

The Forest of Troncais

Europe's Finest Oak Forest

The Forest of Troncais is widely considered the finest stand of sessile oaks in Europe. Its 10,600 hectares shelter trees that exceed 300 years in age and 40 metres in height. Planted under Colbert in the seventeenth century to supply the royal navy with shipbuilding timber, the forest is now managed by the French forestry commission and produces stave wood for wine barrels prized around the world.

Remarkable Trees

Several notable oaks are signposted along the trails: the Chene Sentinelle, the Chene de la Resistance and the Chene Stebbing (named after an English forester) are among the most impressive. Their colossal trunks and majestic canopies give a physical sense of the passage of time. Information panels explain the history and management of the forest.

Walks and Ponds

The forest offers more than 100 kilometres of marked trails for walkers, mountain bikers and horse riders. The ponds of Saint-Bonnet-Troncais, Pirot and Troncais punctuate the walks with tranquil stretches of water. The GR 46 long-distance path crosses the forest for about twenty kilometres. In autumn, the colours are superb and the forest fills with the scent of mushrooms and fallen leaves -- reason enough for the detour.

Bourbon-l'Archambault, Cradle of the Bourbons

The Fortress and the Spa

Bourbon-l'Archambault is the birthplace of the Bourbon dynasty, which gave its kings to France, Spain and Naples. The imposing ruins of the medieval fortress, with three surviving towers looming over the village, testify to that former greatness. A guided tour (around 5 euros) traces the history of the Bourbon family from the tenth century onward.

The town also has a thermal establishment fed by hot springs at 53 degrees, known since antiquity. Rheumatology cures still draw visitors, and the peaceful atmosphere of the village offers a welcome contrast to the bustle of Vichy.

Madame de Montespan

Madame de Montespan, the celebrated mistress of Louis XIV, was born and died in Bourbon-l'Archambault. Her memory lingers in the town, and several walking routes evoke her turbulent life between the court at Versailles and her native soil.

Souvigny, the Bourbon Saint-Denis

The Priory of Souvigny, founded in the tenth century, is the burial place of the earliest lords of Bourbon. Its priory church, one of the largest in the region, contains sculpted tombs and a remarkable Romanesque zodiac pillar. The priory garden and the adjoining museum (around 5 euros) complete a peaceful and enlightening visit into the origins of the dynasty.

Bourbonnais Food and Drink

The Allier is a land of honest, generous cooking:

Pate aux pommes de terre, a puff-pastry pie filled with potatoes, cream and parsley, is the emblematic dish of the Bourbonnais
Pompe aux grattons, a brioche studded with crispy pork-fat cracklings
Charolais beef, exceptional cattle raised in the western pastures of the department
Saint-Pourcain wines, from one of the oldest vineyards in France (predating Bordeaux), producing crisp whites and light reds well worth rediscovering

Practical Tips

When to Visit

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. Summer is pleasant but can be hot on the plains. Autumn (September to October) is ideal for the Forest of Troncais. Vichy is lively all year thanks to its cultural calendar.

Getting Around

Vichy and Moulins are linked to Paris by train (about 3 hours). Vichy station is served by Intercites services. A car is essential for the Forest of Troncais and Bourbon-l'Archambault. The A71 motorway (Paris to Clermont-Ferrand) crosses the department.

How Long to Stay

Allow 3 to 4 days: Vichy and the banks of the Allier (1 day), Moulins and Souvigny (1 day), the Forest of Troncais (1 day), Bourbon-l'Archambault and the Saint-Pourcain vineyard (1 day).

Budget

The Allier is very affordable. Expect 50 to 80 euros per day for a couple. Thermal spas offer day wellness passes from 20 euros per person.