Northern France: Flanders and Craft Beer

Three days in French Flanders, among UNESCO-listed belfries, estaminets crammed with old objects, and breweries that revived the biere de garde tradition. The route starts in Lille, from Vieux-Lille to the Grand Place and Wazemmes market, reaches Cassel, a former favourite village of the French perched on its hill, then Bergues with the belfry made famous by the film Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis, Bailleul and its Flemish main square, before Arras and its two baroque squares set above a network of underground boves. This is a trip about conviviality, potjevleesch and carbonnade. Estaminets often close early and on Mondays; craft breweries require a booking for tours. Bailleul's carnival and Lille's September braderie are worth planning around.