48h in Lyon: Food and Secret Passages

Two days in Lyon, France's gastronomic capital, built across two hills and two rivers. The trip begins in Renaissance Vieux-Lyon and its traboules, private passageways cutting through buildings that silk workers once used to keep their cloth dry, then reaches the Halles Paul Bocuse for quenelles, rosette sausage and Mere Richard's cheeses. The Presqu'ile and Place Bellecour, the Croix-Rousse with its former silk workshops now covered in street art, the Confluence and its deconstructed museum, and finally Fourviere with its panorama, complete the stay. Genuine bouchons display the Bouchons Lyonnais label: book ahead, they are small and full. The traboules are private passages, open by agreement during the day, so enter discreetly and quietly.