Lake Serre-Ponçon: A Sea in the Alps

Lake Serre-Ponçon is a turquoise giant set in the heart of the Southern Alps, straddling the Hautes-Alpes and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence departments. At 20 kilometres long, 3 kilometres wide and holding 1.27 billion cubic metres of water, it is one of the largest artificial lakes in Western Europe. Born in the 1960s from the construction of a dam on the Durance river, it now offers a striking landscape where blue-green waters are framed by mountains rising above 2,500 metres. A paradise for water sports in summer and a haven for hikers in spring and autumn, Lake Serre-Ponçon has become one of the flagship destinations of the French Alps.

The dam and the lake's history

A titanic construction project

The Serre-Ponçon Dam is an earth-fill structure standing 123 metres high and 600 metres long at its crest. Its construction, which began in 1955 and was completed in 1960, required thousands of workers over five years. The dam holds back the waters of the Durance and the Ubaye, controlling the devastating floods that had ravaged lower Provence for centuries. It also supplies water to the whole of Provence via the Canal de Provence and generates electricity through its hydroelectric power station (720 GWh per year).

The drowned villages

The filling of the lake submerged several villages and hamlets. The most famous is Savines, whose inhabitants were relocated to the new town of Savines-le-Lac built on higher ground. During low winter water levels, the foundations and ruins of the old village sometimes reappear, creating a poignant spectacle. The Muséoscope du Lac, located on the lakeside at Rousset, tells this story through films, scale models and testimonies from former residents. The visit lasts about 1.5 hours (admission: around €7).

Beaches and swimming

The best beaches

The lake offers numerous sand and pebble beaches, supervised in summer from mid-June to early September. Water temperatures reach 22–24°C in July and August, ideal for swimming.

Savines-le-Lac Beach: the largest and best-equipped, with a playground, snack bar and pedal boat hire. Free access.
Chanteloube Beach: on the peninsula of the same name, in a wild setting facing the mountains. Stunning scenery, few facilities.
Saint-Vincent-les-Forts Beach: on the south shore (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence), a renowned paragliding spot with lake-side landings.
Boscodon Beach: accessible from Boscodon Abbey, at the foot of larch forests. Peaceful atmosphere.
Chorges Recreation Area: at the northern tip of the lake, set up with children's play areas, ideal for families.

Practical tip

Lake levels vary by season. In summer, the lake is at its highest and all beaches are accessible. In late summer and autumn, levels drop and some beaches end up far from the water. The best months for swimming are July and August.

Water sports

Serre-Ponçon is an exceptional playground for water activities, thanks to its size, reliable winds and warm waters.

Sailing and windsurfing

The lake benefits from regular thermal breezes that pick up in the early afternoon, offering ideal conditions for sailing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Several water sports centres offer lessons and equipment hire:

Savines-le-Lac Water Sports Centre: hire of dinghies, catamarans, windsurfers and stand-up paddleboards. Group lessons from around €35 per session.
Chanteloube Nautique: sailing school in a preserved setting.
Saint-Vincent Kite: kitesurfing spot on the south shore, catching the evening winds.

Paddle, kayak and canoe

Stand-up paddleboarding is the lake's most popular activity. The calm morning waters, before the breeze sets in, offer perfect conditions for exploring coves and cliffs from the water. Hire from €15 per hour at most beaches. Sea kayaking and canoeing allow you to explore the shoreline and discover beaches inaccessible by road.

Tubing and water skiing

For thrill-seekers, operators offer inflatable tubing, water skiing and wakeboarding on the lake. Expect to pay around €20–30 per session.

Hiking around the lake

The lake circuit

The lake circuit on foot is a long-distance trail of around 80 kilometres, achievable in 4–5 days. It follows waymarked paths alternating between larch forests, panoramic viewpoints and passages through lakeside villages. The route can also be done by mountain bike or road bike.

Saint-Michel Chapel

Perched on a rocky pinnacle emerging from the water, Saint-Michel Chapel is the lake's iconic image. This 12th-century Romanesque building, once on top of a hill, now sits on an islet since the lake was filled. It can be reached on foot when the water level is low, or by kayak or paddleboard at other times. The sight is magical at sunset.

Boscodon and the forest

Boscodon Abbey, founded in 1142, is a jewel of Provençal Romanesque art nestled in a forest of centuries-old firs and larches. Visiting the abbey (around €5) and walking through the Boscodon Forest (2-hour loop) make for an unmissable excursion. The waymarked botanical trail passes through a majestic fir forest with trees over 40 metres tall.

The Demoiselles Coiffées

At Théus, a few kilometres from the lake, the Demoiselles Coiffées (capped ladies) are spectacular fairy chimneys: columns of earth topped with large boulders, sculpted by erosion. An easy 45-minute trail allows you to observe them up close. It is a unique geological site in the Alps.

Villages around the lake

Embrun, the Nice of the Alps

Embrun, perched on a rock overlooking the lake, is the area's main town. Its nickname "Nice of the Alps" reflects its exceptional sunshine. The Notre-Dame du Réal Cathedral (12th century), with its pink marble porch supported by stone columns, is a masterpiece of alpine Romanesque art. The Archbishop's Garden, suspended above the lake, offers one of the finest panoramas in the region. The Tuesday and Friday market is one of the liveliest in the Southern Alps.

Chorges and the lake road

Chorges, at the northern end, is a charming Provençal village with fountains, shaded squares and a Romanesque church. It is the starting point of the lake road (D3), which follows the eastern shore with spectacular viewpoints.

Savines-le-Lac

Savines-le-Lac is the lake's resort town, rebuilt in the 1960s after the old village was submerged. Its central location, facing Saint-Michel Chapel, makes it an ideal base for exploring the lake. The Savines bridge, 924 metres long, is the longest prestressed concrete bridge in France.

Practical information

Getting there

By car: A51 motorway from Marseille/Aix-en-Provence (2.5 hours), then N85 and N94 to Embrun or Chorges. From Grenoble, N85 via the Col Bayard (2 hours).
By train: Embrun station on the Alpine line (Briançon–Marseille), with direct regional trains from Marseille (3 hours) and Grenoble (3.5 hours).
By air: Marseille (200 km) or Grenoble (150 km) airports.

When to visit

Summer (June–September): main season, swimming, water sports, temperatures of 25–32°C. Peak crowds in July–August.
Spring (April–May): hiking, lake at its lowest but blossoming landscapes, few tourists.
Autumn (October–November): exceptional autumn colours, reflections on the lake, absolute tranquillity.
Winter: the ski resorts of Réallon, Les Orres and Crévoux are less than 30 minutes from the lake.

Accommodation

Lakeside campsites (from €15 per night), rural gîtes, hotels in Embrun and Savines-le-Lac. Booking strongly recommended in July–August.