Haute-Savoie: Mont Blanc and Annecy

Haute-Savoie packs an extraordinary concentration of alpine superlatives into a single département: western Europe's highest peak, one of the continent's purest lakes and ski resorts that set the standard worldwide. It is a place where nature operates on a grand scale and mountain traditions remain deeply alive. Here is our guide to this remarkable corner of France.

Annecy, the Venice of the Alps

Old Town and the Palais de l'Isle

Annecy fully deserves its nickname, the "Venice of the Alps." The Thiou, which claims to be France's shortest river, threads through the old town in canals lined with brightly painted houses. Rising from the water in the middle of it all stands the Palais de l'Isle, a 12th-century former prison and now the city's most photographed landmark (visit around 4 €). The quaysides and arcades surrounding it form a scene of rare beauty.

Lose yourself in the pedestrian lanes, browse the markets — the Sunday morning market is especially lively — and climb to the Château d'Annecy for panoramic views over the rooftops and lake. The castle houses an engaging regional museum (around 6 €).

Lac d'Annecy, a Turquoise Jewel

Lac d'Annecy is regularly described as Europe's purest lake. Its turquoise waters, framed by the Tournette and Semnoz mountains, are mesmerising in every season. The cycle path circling the lake (around 40 km) is one of France's finest: flat, well-surfaced and traffic-free, it hugs the shoreline past beaches, villages and alpine panoramas. Bicycle rental starts at around 20 € per day.

In summer, swim from the beaches at Talloires, Menthon-Saint-Bernard or from the Pâquier park right in Annecy. For a rush of adrenaline, try tandem paragliding from the Col de la Forclaz with a spectacular landing by the lake (around 90 €).

Chamonix-Mont-Blanc

Aiguille du Midi, Close to the Sky

Chamonix has been the world capital of mountaineering since the first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786. The Aiguille du Midi cable car whisks visitors to 3,842 metres in just 20 minutes — a vertiginous experience. At the top, the "Step into the Void," a glass-floored viewing cage suspended over a 1,000-metre drop, is genuinely breathtaking. The return ticket costs around 66 € (booking recommended in summer).

On a clear day, the view stretches across Mont Blanc (4,808 m), the Monte Rosa massif and even the Matterhorn. The crossing to Pointe Helbronner on the Italian side (supplement ~18 €) glides over the glacier in a gondola — unforgettable.

Mer de Glace

The Montenvers rack railway climbs from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace, France's largest glacier (around 35 € return). This 7-kilometre river of ice is retreating visibly each year. The ice cave, recarved annually, and the glaciorium exhibition on climate change make the visit both spectacular and thought-provoking.

Hiking and Mountaineering

The Tour du Mont-Blanc (TMB), a 170 km trek over 7 to 10 days through France, Italy and Switzerland, ranks among the world's most famous long-distance walks. Day sections are easily accessible from Chamonix. The Grand Balcon Sud trail offers magnificent views of the massif without excessive difficulty.

Charming Resorts

Megève and La Clusaz

Megève was created in the 1920s by Baroness de Rothschild as a French answer to St Moritz. It has kept its elegance: a pedestrian village, luxury hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants make it as much a lifestyle destination as a ski area.

La Clusaz, more authentic and gentler on the wallet, charms with its year-round village atmosphere. Its 125 km of runs stretch from 1,100 to 2,600 metres. In summer, hiking and mountain biking take over. The farmhouse Reblochon cheese made in the surrounding pastures is particularly fine.

Around Lake Geneva

Yvoire, a Flowered Medieval Village

Listed among France's Plus Beaux Villages, Yvoire is a medieval gem on the shore of Lake Geneva. Its cobbled lanes, stone houses draped in flowers and 14th-century castle create a picture-postcard scene. The Jardin des Cinq Sens (Garden of the Five Senses, around 14 €) is a remarkable themed garden and a peaceful retreat overlooking the lake.

Thonon-les-Bains and Lake Geneva

Thonon-les-Bains, set on the bluffs above Lake Geneva, commands a spectacular panorama of the Swiss Alps. A funicular connects the upper town to the Rives harbour. CGN boats cross the lake to Lausanne or cruise along the French shore. The famous Evian mineral springs are just next door and open for visits.

Gorges du Fier

A short drive from Annecy, the Gorges du Fier are a striking geological curiosity. A walkway suspended 25 metres above the torrent leads through a narrow cleft carved into limestone (around 6 €, allow 30 minutes). The giant potholes and erosion-sculpted formations are impressive. A brief detour, but a memorable one.

Haute-Savoie Food and Drink

Reblochon is the undisputed king of Haute-Savoie cheeses. This raw-milk, washed-rind cheese is the essential ingredient in tartiflette, the region's signature dish: potatoes, lardons, onions and a whole Reblochon melted in the oven. Fondue savoyarde, crozets (small buckwheat pasta squares) and rissoles (sweet pastry turnovers) round out a comfort-food repertoire built for cold mountain evenings.

Local Savoie wines — Crépy, Ripaille, Marignan — make crisp, light companions to all of the above.

Practical Tips

When to Visit

December to April for skiing. July and August for hiking and lake swimming — book well ahead. June and September are ideal for enjoying the mountains without the crowds.

Getting Around

The TGV reaches Annecy from Paris in 3h40. Geneva airport, just 40 minutes from Annecy, provides international access. A car is essential for exploring the département fully. Watch for closed passes in winter.