GR400: Tour of the Cantal Volcanoes

Five days around Europe's largest stratovolcano, whose original cone probably exceeded three thousand metres before it collapsed. The route starts at Le Lioran in the heart of the massif, reaches the Puy Mary, a Grand Site de France offering a full panorama over valleys arranged like the spokes of a wheel, then Salers, a black lava village listed among the most beautiful in France, the Puy Griou and its airy peak, before the wild valley of Mandailles-Saint-Julien. This is a land of shepherds' huts, summer pastures and red Salers cattle. Fog descends quickly on the ridges: carry a map and compass rather than relying on an app alone. Huts converted into lodges close out of season, so check opening dates before setting out.