Wild Camargue

Three days in the Rhone delta, among brackish lagoons, rice paddies and bull ranches. The route starts in Arles, with its Roman amphitheatre and the light that kept Van Gogh there, reaches Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the Camargue's capital and site of the Roma pilgrimage each May, then the Pont de Gau bird park where flamingos come within a few metres. Aigues-Mortes and Saint Louis's intact ramparts overlook pink salt pans, before the Palissade estate, the last stretch of wild land before the river mouth. This is flat, open, wind-scoured country where the wildlife is the main event. Mosquitoes are fierce from May to September: bring repellent and long sleeves at dusk. Binoculars are strongly recommended, and spring or autumn suit the migrations best.